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There is no shortage of Instagram or Tik Tok accounts with “influencers” giving hidden tips, products, or procedures to help alter viewer appearances via their trusted (or more likely, paid) advice. It paints a very real image of the issues facing the UK cosmetic industry in terms of regulatory compliance – or lack of – in the sector.
A recent Guardian article highlights a call from a recently elected MP for cosmetics companies to stop forcing people with food allergies to learn Latin, and for cosmetic companies to label their health and safety warnings in “plain English”. This has stemmed from the fact that she and other food allergy sufferers currently had to learn Latin names for some crucial ingredients in face creams, lip balms and lotions to ensure they did not come into contact with a substance that could make them seriously ill.
One key issue is the regulatory compliance in the sector post-Brexit. Before 2016, UK cosmetic regulations were aligned with EU’s Cosmetic Products Regulation (EC 1223/2009), which set strict guidelines on product safety, labelling, and ingredient usage. Post-Brexit, the UK has implemented its own Cosmetic Products Regulation, with subtle differences that companies must now navigate.
The primary regulatory body overseeing the cosmetics sector in the UK is the Office for Product Safety and Standards (OPSS), in collaboration with the Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA). The former enforces regulation in the UK – protecting consumers from harmful ingredients and unsafe formulations – whilst the latter ensures there are no misleading health claims without clinical evidence.
That said, there is little guidance issued around social media influencers who tout the latest trends or crazes – skin cycling, glass skin, faux freckles, and skin flooding are all prevalent on video platform Tik Tok at time of writing – who will often have little or no understanding of the products, and not be made aware of any possible side-effects despite promoting the products for a fee.
Despite the risks associated with quick wins for consumers of cosmetic products, more than 84% cited they felt an esteem boost after using a product, which will do little to throttle back on the £8.9bn value associated with the cosmetic and beauty industry in 2022. There has been a rise in self-care, and holistic health as a deeper focus on health and internal balance to prioritise health, and there is no evidence to suggest this current trend will go away any time soon.
